Törggelen, an Ancient Pleasant Tradition
Törggelen, an Ancient Pleasant Tradition
The slopes of the Bolzano basin are unmistakable, covered with orderly pergolas of vines rising up to 600–700 meters altitude, then giving way to chestnut and oak woods. At this time of year, the city is surrounded by magnificent warm polychrome tones, quickly shifting the bright green of summer vegetation to the more melancholic hues of autumn.
Scattered throughout this territory are various traditional farmsteads (also known as masi), which in autumn become the protagonists of the local ancient tradition known as "Törggelen." This custom, whose name derives from the Latin torquere, meaning to press grapes after the harvest, originates from ancient times when friends, relatives, or herders would help the vineyard owner and in return received a good plate of dumplings (canederli or knödeln), homemade sausage, some speck, accompanied by a glass of house wine.
It was a sort of barter between farmers from the valley floor and gentle hillsides, historically cultivating vines, fruit, and vegetables, while those from the high mountains dedicated themselves almost exclusively to livestock. The latter spent summer months in alpine pastures with their herds, also guarding those of owners who had vineyards and orchards lower down.
In autumn, the fruits of the land and human labor were exchanged, and each village celebrated, to this day many religious ceremonies mark this moment with processions and pilgrimages, expressing the joy of the harvest.
This ancient tradition, much loved by South Tyroleans (and now by many others), is a ritual still repeated today, characterized by great convivial value. The authentic Törggelen must be preceded by a walk leading to the destination — one or more farmsteads in the surrounding area. Once seated in the cozy stube (traditional room), the typical menu is enjoyed: barley or pumpkin soup; first courses such as cheese, spinach, or beetroot dumplings (canederli) or Schlutzkrapfen — delicious half-moon-shaped pasta filled with spinach and ricotta.
The main course must include pork ribs with sauerkraut, sausages, and blood sausages accompanied by sautéed potatoes and speck dumplings. To conclude the lavish meal properly, poppy seed, chestnut, or jam-filled doughnuts (usually cranberry jam) are served, along with Strauben(a type of fried dough) and the indispensable roasted chestnuts, accompanied by freshly pressed grape must.
Image: Törgellen, Courtesy Manuel Ferrigato und IDM