The Ancient Tradition of Törggelen: Discovering Autumn in South Tyrol

The pleasure of traditional celebrations, both religious and secular, is deeply rooted in South Tyrolean culture. As the days grow shorter and the landscape is transformed by the vibrant colours of autumn, locals gather in the warmth of the Stuben to enjoy seasonal dishes that form the heart of Törggelen, an ancient tradition whose name derives from the Latin torculum, meaning wine press.

Throughout autumn, across South Tyrol and in the vineyard-covered hills surrounding Bolzano, the harvest is celebrated not only through religious ceremonies but also around the tables of the many Buschenschänke (wine taverns) and Hofschänke (farm inns). Here, farmers themselves prepare traditional dishes, serve their own wines, and offer locally grown chestnuts. These establishments are easily recognised by a leafy branch hanging above the entrance.

The recipes are prepared exclusively with seasonal ingredients, the result of a year's work in vineyards, orchards, vegetable gardens, and mountain pastures. While farmers in the valleys and on the sunny slopes have traditionally cultivated grapes, fruit, and vegetables, those in the higher mountain regions have focused mainly on livestock farming. During the summer months, they tend cattle and goats on alpine pastures, becoming skilled producers of milk and cheese.

In the past, the return of the livestock from the mountains marked a moment of celebration in every village. After church services and processions, the joy of the harvest was shared around the table.

Tradition calls for hearty first courses such as barley soup or pumpkin soup, as well as bread dumplings in variations with cheese, spinach, or beetroot, served with melted butter, or speck dumplings in broth. Another much-loved speciality is Schlutzkrapfen, delicate half-moon-shaped pasta filled with spinach and ricotta, served with melted butter and sage.

The traditional autumn menu continues with substantial main courses, including pork loin with sauerkraut, Röstkartoffeln (pan-fried potatoes), ribs, sausages, and blood sausage (Blutwurst).

For dessert, no Törggelen table would be complete without Krapfen filled with jam or poppy seeds. Particularly popular are those filled with chestnuts or Kloatzen pear compote. These small, rustic dried pears belong to an ancient local variety and are recognised as a Slow Food Praesidium product.

To conclude the feast, there are roasted chestnuts, which remain one of the most beloved symbols of the season. Historically, however, the true protagonist of Törggelen was the freshly pressed young wine, shared as a gesture of gratitude with everyone who had helped during the grape harvest. Today, alongside roasted chestnuts, visitors can also enjoy sweet grape must or, from late October through November, the new wine of the season.

Törggelen remains one of South Tyrol’s most authentic traditions, a celebration that brings together food, wine, community, and the rhythms of rural life, offering visitors a unique way to experience the region during its most colourful season.

Image: Törgellen,  Courtesy IDM